The Ballad of Anakala Pilipo and Halawa, Moloka’i.

By Posted in - Molokai & Travel Blog & U.S.A. on June 10th, 2014 The Ballad of Anakala Pilipo and Halawa Molokai

Editor’s Note: Moloka’i is a very special place and meeting Anakala was one of the most authentic experiences we have ever had on our travels. It is a must do if you are traveling to the island. We fell head over heels in love with Moloka’i after our time with Anakala and learned so much more than we anticipated about the history and life of the island and its people. Going to a luau is a lot of fun, but if you really want to learn about true Hawaiian culture, you need to meet with Anakala. There is no substitute for spending a couple of hours with him. ** We used an apostrophe for the ‘okina, as the traditional accent doesn’t work within our font.

Follow one of Moloka’i’s many colorful rainbows to the east, and you’ll find the island’s pot of gold. Inside Halawa Valley, Pilipo Solatorio shares his stories, history and knowledge of the valley. It’s here, at the end of Highway 450, where Solatorio grew up with his grandfather’s passion for Halawa and its tradition, eventually raising six children of his own on this fertile land.

We were in the valley to talk story with Solatorio, known affectionately around the island as Anakala (meaning: Uncle–that’s how I’ll refer to him from here on out), and hike out to the Mo’oula Falls. As Halawa Valley’s oldest living Hawaiian descendant, Anakala is the cultural god father to Molokai, and the person to meet in order to gain a deeper understanding of the island.

Before meeting Anakala, though, we had to announce our arrival. With Anakala’s son, Greg, as our guide, we stood at the entrance of the valley, each wearing a dark green kihei (a traditional Hawaiian shawl) and listening for a similar response to our conch shell announcement to sound through the lush valley–it came seconds later and we continued forward. The ritual comes from the ancient Hawaiians and it was instrumental for keeping tabs on boats arriving in the valley’s tooth-shaped bay. The final step involves getting within sight-distance of the king or, in this case, the landowner, to announce yourself and purpose for the visit.

Walking in through the entrance to start the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike.

Hiking into Halawa Valley in Molokai, Hawaii.

Meeting Anakala Pilipo Solatorio at the start of the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike.
Once we had Anakala’s blessing, we moved towards him and his smiling tribe of grandchildren. After proper introductions, we took part in the giving of a ho’okupu, which is the giving of a ceremonial gift to the host, kind of like bringing a bottle of wine to your host’s house on the mainland. Then it was time for the honi, a Polynesian greeting in which we pressed our foreheads together and inhaled simultaneously. The traditional greeting represents the exchange of ha (the breath of life) and mana, the spiritual bond between two people.

Anakala Pilipos Solatorio speaking at his home in the Halawa Valley in Molokai, Hawaii.

Anakala Pilipo Solatorio with his grandchildren during a traditional Hawaiian protocol.

Anakala and Bethany Salvon performing a traditional Polynesian greeting at the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike.

Talking Story

Following the traditional Hawaiian protocol, we moved into the family’s Hale Ike o Halawa (a house to share knowledge of Halawa) for the next part of the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike. Inside the beautifully crafted structure, Anakala took us on an incredibly moving journey about his life in the valley. More than a few tears were shed both by him and Beth during his story.

At the age of five, Anakala said his grandfather chose him as the family’s cultural practitioner. The choice came after careful observation of the boy and his curiosities and interests in the land and heritage of its people. Now in his mid-70s, it’s hard (and a bit scary) to imagine a world without Anakala in it to uphold the traditions of the Hawaiian people.

Anakala Pilipo Solatorio talking story at the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai.

Anakala Pilipo Solatorio explaining the history of the Halawa Valley in Molokai.
Anakala explained to us that centuries ago Halawa Valley was a different place than it is today. In those days, it was the epicenter of life for Hawaiians on Molokai with more than 5,000 residents. The valley contained no trees then and allowed for unrestricted views of the tiered Mo’oula Falls.

  
Things changed in April 1946, however, when a devastating Tsunami struck Halawa in the middle of the night, ripping through the bay and driving deep into the valley, destroying homes, farmland and anything else in its path. Anakala, who was just five, remembers the gut-wrenching sounds that filled the valley as the powerful tidal wave uprooted everything in its path. In the years following the tsunami, life on the island shifted away from Halawa, and over time traditions faded like an aging Polaroid as mainland influences streamed into the Hawaiian islands.

“The valley was a melting pot,” Anakala said with soulful eyes. “The world came into Halawa and spread all over the world.”

Luckily, for all of us, Anakala never wavered in this oath to his grandfather, and that same Hawaiian spirit that courses through his veins and fills his soft words, can also be found in his son, Greg.

Anakala and his son Greg at the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai, Hawaii.

Hiking to Mo’oula Falls

Armed with our new found knowledge of the valley and its importance to the Hawaiian culture, it was time to hike out to the waterfall. We bid farewell to Anakala and started the journey to the cascading falls that loomed in the heart of lushness.

  

Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai, Hawaii.

A man walking through the lush plant life in Halawa Valley in Molokai, Hawaii.

The lush forest of Halawa Valley in Molokai, Hawaii.
It donned on me as we made our way along the trail, that I had never hiked for any considerable length in the tropics before. We did a bit in the Galapagos, but the hike was fairly short and we didn’t encounter anything like we did on our trip to the falls. The natural growth was staggering, we encountered leaves that looked like leftover props from the set of Jurassic Park. Along some stretches of the well-maintained trail, the forest overgrew itself, creating intertwined tubes of vines and wood.

Hiking with Greg on the trails of his childhood was a lot of fun, as he was able to give us a deeper understanding of the awesome things that surrounded us. Along the way we passed gorgeous flowers, ancient rock walls, burial grounds and taro terraces and places of worship, as well as interesting plants such as the Bird’s Nest Fern, which is used to make purple dye, and the Noni, a fruit revered for its medicinal qualities.

Randy Kalp holding a huge leaf up during the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai.    A group hiking through Halawa Valley in Molokai, Hawaii.An ancient stone wall in Halawa Valley.

A flower along the trail of the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai.
The trail to Mo’oula Falls is perfect for hikers of all ages and is listed as intermediate to advanced, as there are two small river crossings (we had no problem negotiating these in June, and Greg and his assistant were right there to help too). By the time we got to the gushing falls, I was ready for a dip. This was my first time swimming at a waterfall, and it was epic. The falls drop 250 feet into the pool, and the water is fresh and crisp.

A man swimming at Mo’oula during the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike in Molokai in Hawaii.

Swimming at the falls, after the hike and talking story with Anakala, was simply amazing. By the time, we’d reached the Mo’oula Falls, I had such a better understanding and respect for the Halawa Valley, Molokai and Hawaii as a whole, that having a chance to swim at the sacred spot felt like a true gift.

Beth and I both feel fortunate to have met Anakala and his family. He’s cut from a different cloth than most of us, and I for one am happy to know he’s out there.

And on that note, I guess the only thing left to say is…


Know Before You Go

Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike
E Kamehameha V Hwy, Kaunakakai, HI 96748
Greg Solatorio – 808-551-5538
Pilipo Solatorio – 808-551-1055
http://halawavalleymolokai.com


View Larger Map

The 411
    • The cultural hike costs $60/adult and $30/children and can be booked by leaving a voice message with the at one of the two numbers listed above. Be sure to leave your name, phone number, total number in your party, and the date you would like to visit.
    • Your feet will get wet, as there are two river crossings, so it’s recommended that you wear closed toe hiking shoes or hiking sandals. Flip-flops are not allowed.
    • The hike to Mo’oula Falls is approximately 1.7 miles each way and is listed as an intermediate to advanced hike.
    • Make sure to pack water, a snack or light lunch, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and a poncho or rain jacket

Want more Moloka’i? Here’s our other stories from our time on the island:

You Know You Can’t Hold Me Forever–Molokai, Hawaii (Somewhere in Time Photo Travel Photo)

The Great Molokai Hot Bread Run! Are You Experienced?

Kaunakakai, Molokai: The Coolest Small Town?

Molokai in 11 Snaps: An Instagram Session

Molokai: The Most Hawaiian Place?

Editor’s note:


Disclosure: Our stay on the island was hosted by the Destination Molokai Visitors Bureau; however, our thoughts and opinions are entirely our own. And, as always, we maintain complete editorial control over our content.

(13) awesome folk have had something to say...

  • @RickGriffin -

    June 11, 2014 at 1:51 pm

    We were fortunate enough to meet Anakala on our visit to Molokai. He is one of those special people you meet in your travels that you will never forget. My appreciation and admiration for Molokai and it’s culture rivals any place that I’ve ever been thanks to Anakala.

    • Randy Kalp -

      June 14, 2014 at 2:06 pm

      Definitely Rick! Beth and I felt the same way. We met Anakala early on in the trip and it was the perfect introduction to Molokai.

  • Marie @ Budgeting for Travel -

    June 12, 2014 at 8:01 am

    It must have been a great experience! Woah, I am an adventurous person and I think I will include this in my list. Thank for sharing.

    • Randy Kalp -

      June 14, 2014 at 2:10 pm

      I think you would really like this Marie. It has all the hallmarks of great hike, plus you a lot of extra insight into Halawa Valley and Mo’oula Falls since you’re hiking with Greg, who grew up on the trails.

  • Marie @ Budgeting for Travel -

    June 12, 2014 at 8:02 am

    It must have been a great experience! Woah, I am an adventurous person and I think I will include this in my list. Thank for sharing.

  • mauikelii -

    June 12, 2014 at 8:27 am

    I’ve read myriad stories about Halawa Valley and Uncle (“Anakala”) Pilipo. There were several excellent ones, but this is simply the best. It truly captures the essence of the man, the experience of his compelling “talk story,” and the beautiful hike itself. I don’t know which was better, your spectacular images or your illuminating story. Both were fantastic. Mahalo nui loa!

    • Randy Kalp -

      June 14, 2014 at 2:22 pm

      Thanks Kelii! That really means a lot. Beth and I were really moved by our time with Anakala and Greg, and wanted to capture the experience as best we could. I’m glad we were able to translate our time in the Halawa Valley to our blog in a way that will hopefully inspire others to take the hike too. Judging from the interest in Hawaiian traditions from Greg’s children, I’m hopeful there will be someone to talk story with in the Halawa Valley for many generations to come.

  • rebecca -

    June 12, 2014 at 10:33 am

    what an amazing experience! I am jealous!

    • Randy Kalp -

      June 14, 2014 at 2:11 pm

      Haha! Don’t be Rebecca. You can do it too! I have a feeling that Halawa Valley is going to be in great hands for many, many years to come.

  • Sand In My Suitcase -

    June 15, 2014 at 9:08 am

    Lovely story/post – brought back wonderful memories. We talked story with Anakala too before hiking to the same waterfalls on Molokai. As you say, a very authentic experience.

  • Oliver -

    June 17, 2014 at 7:30 am

    Sounds and looks like a magnificent experience indeed guys! Quite interesting to see people living at a different pace and with a different connection to nature. I think we can learn from their wisdom indeed…
    Also great to see how the experience resonated with you and how much you actually immersed in the place and its people!

  • Peter Thomas -

    June 19, 2014 at 7:30 pm

    This is great experience! I really wish that I was in Hawaii right now. Is going there gonna cost a lot money? Please let me know.

  • Alexandra -

    June 26, 2014 at 4:03 am

    I couldn’t agree with you two more about this…. I don’t even know what to call it… hike, trip, journey, meeting new friends. I’m gonna go with catching a glimpse of old Hawaii and finding the true meaning of Aloha!

    The memories I have from my morning in Halawa Valley are dear to my heart and my favorite part of Molokai. As a jaded Maui girl it is moments like these that make me truly thankful that I call Hawaii home and that I have been blessed with people and places like this.