The Ballad of Anakala Pilipo and Halawa, Moloka’i.

Editor’s Note: Moloka’i is a very special place and meeting Anakala was one of the most authentic experiences we have ever had on our travels. It is a must do if you are traveling to the island. We fell head over heels in love with Moloka’i after our time with Anakala and learned so much more than we anticipated about the history and life of the island and its people. Going to a luau is a lot of fun, but if you really want to learn about true Hawaiian culture, you need to meet with Anakala. There is no substitute for spending a couple of hours with him. ** We used an apostrophe for the ‘okina, as the traditional accent doesn’t work within our font.

Follow one of Moloka’i’s many colorful rainbows to the east, and you’ll find the island’s pot of gold. Inside Halawa Valley, Pilipo Solatorio shares his stories, history and knowledge of the valley. It’s here, at the end of Highway 450, where Solatorio grew up with his grandfather’s passion for Halawa and its tradition, eventually raising six children of his own on this fertile land.

We were in the valley to talk story with Solatorio, known affectionately around the island as Anakala (meaning: Uncle–that’s how I’ll refer to him from here on out), and hike out to the Mo’oula Falls. As Halawa Valley’s oldest living Hawaiian descendant, Anakala is the cultural god father to Molokai, and the person to meet in order to gain a deeper understanding of the island.

Before meeting Anakala, though, we had to announce our arrival. With Anakala’s son, Greg, as our guide, we stood at the entrance of the valley, each wearing a dark green kihei (a traditional Hawaiian shawl) and listening for a similar response to our conch shell announcement to sound through the lush valley–it came seconds later and we continued forward. The ritual comes from the ancient Hawaiians and it was instrumental for keeping tabs on boats arriving in the valley’s tooth-shaped bay. The final step involves getting within sight-distance of the king or, in this case, the landowner, to announce yourself and purpose for the visit.

Once we had Anakala’s blessing, we moved towards him and his smiling tribe of grandchildren. After proper introductions, we took part in the giving of a ho’okupu, which is the giving of a ceremonial gift to the host, kind of like bringing a bottle of wine to your host’s house on the mainland. Then it was time for the honi, a Polynesian greeting in which we pressed our foreheads together and inhaled simultaneously. The traditional greeting represents the exchange of ha (the breath of life) and mana, the spiritual bond between two people.

Talking Story

Following the traditional Hawaiian protocol, we moved into the family’s Hale Ike o Halawa (a house to share knowledge of Halawa) for the next part of the Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike. Inside the beautifully crafted structure, Anakala took us on an incredibly moving journey about his life in the valley. More than a few tears were shed both by him and Beth during his story.

At the age of five, Anakala said his grandfather chose him as the family’s cultural practitioner. The choice came after careful observation of the boy and his curiosities and interests in the land and heritage of its people. Now in his mid-70s, it’s hard (and a bit scary) to imagine a world without Anakala in it to uphold the traditions of the Hawaiian people.

Anakala explained to us that centuries ago Halawa Valley was a different place than it is today. In those days, it was the epicenter of life for Hawaiians on Molokai with more than 5,000 residents. The valley contained no trees then and allowed for unrestricted views of the tiered Mo’oula Falls.

  
Things changed in April 1946, however, when a devastating Tsunami struck Halawa in the middle of the night, ripping through the bay and driving deep into the valley, destroying homes, farmland and anything else in its path. Anakala, who was just five, remembers the gut-wrenching sounds that filled the valley as the powerful tidal wave uprooted everything in its path. In the years following the tsunami, life on the island shifted away from Halawa, and over time traditions faded like an aging Polaroid as mainland influences streamed into the Hawaiian islands.

“The valley was a melting pot,” Anakala said with soulful eyes. “The world came into Halawa and spread all over the world.”

Luckily, for all of us, Anakala never wavered in this oath to his grandfather, and that same Hawaiian spirit that courses through his veins and fills his soft words, can also be found in his son, Greg.

Hiking to Mo’oula Falls

Armed with our new found knowledge of the valley and its importance to the Hawaiian culture, it was time to hike out to the waterfall. We bid farewell to Anakala and started the journey to the cascading falls that loomed in the heart of lushness.

It donned on me as we made our way along the trail, that I had never hiked for any considerable length in the tropics before. We did a bit in the Galapagos, but the hike was fairly short and we didn’t encounter anything like we did on our trip to the falls. The natural growth was staggering, we encountered leaves that looked like leftover props from the set of Jurassic Park. Along some stretches of the well-maintained trail, the forest overgrew itself, creating intertwined tubes of vines and wood.

Hiking with Greg on the trails of his childhood was a lot of fun, as he was able to give us a deeper understanding of the awesome things that surrounded us. Along the way we passed gorgeous flowers, ancient rock walls, burial grounds and taro terraces and places of worship, as well as interesting plants such as the Bird’s Nest Fern, which is used to make purple dye, and the Noni, a fruit revered for its medicinal qualities.

The trail to Mo’oula Falls is perfect for hikers of all ages and is listed as intermediate to advanced, as there are two small river crossings (we had no problem negotiating these in June, and Greg and his assistant were right there to help too). By the time we got to the gushing falls, I was ready for a dip. This was my first time swimming at a waterfall, and it was epic. The falls drop 250 feet into the pool, and the water is fresh and crisp.

Swimming at the falls, after the hike and talking story with Anakala, was simply amazing. By the time, we’d reached the Mo’oula Falls, I had such a better understanding and respect for the Halawa Valley, Molokai and Hawaii as a whole, that having a chance to swim at the sacred spot felt like a true gift.

Beth and I both feel fortunate to have met Anakala and his family. He’s cut from a different cloth than most of us, and I for one am happy to know he’s out there.

And on that note, I guess the only thing left to say is…

Know Before You Go

Want more Moloka’i? Here’s our other stories from our time on the island:

You Know You Can’t Hold Me Forever–Molokai, Hawaii (Somewhere in Time Photo Travel Photo)

The Great Molokai Hot Bread Run! Are You Experienced?

Kaunakakai, Molokai: The Coolest Small Town?

Molokai in 11 Snaps: An Instagram Session

Molokai: The Most Hawaiian Place?

Editor’s note:

Disclosure: Our stay on the island was hosted by the Destination Molokai Visitors Bureau; however, our thoughts and opinions are entirely our own. And, as always, we maintain complete editorial control over our content.